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Barry SchwartzA second step, raised on pylons, to which it is held by nuts on ½-inch threaded stainless steel rods. The joint is not quite flat, so hopefully the step is stiff enough not to bend under the tension of the steel rods. Otherwise I will have to start over!<br> <br> There are six black ash hardwood joists, though they are thin. However, though epoxy is easily bent over time, much of the epoxy here has been stiffened with chopped fiberglass. So there is hope.<br> <br> The original step now needs to be raised a little. It sits only on the outermost joists. I am considering using wooden boots on those joists.<br> <br> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/Alt4me?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#Alt4me</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxy?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxy</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxyResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxyResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/woodworking?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#woodworking</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/steel?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#steel</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/stainlessSteel?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#stainlessSteel</a>
Becky Barnes<p>My daughter had a few boxes of Girl Scout cookies left to sell, so we made up some "dragon-snails". People could adopt-a-snail (for the price of 3x boxes of cookies), and get 3x FREE boxes of cookies! Such a deal!</p><p>One (rear) had garnet cabochon eyes, and the other (front) had tigerseye cabochon eyes.</p><p><a href="https://mastodon.art/tags/dragonsnail" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>dragonsnail</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.art/tags/dragon" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>dragon</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.art/tags/snail" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>snail</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.art/tags/epoxy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>epoxy</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.art/tags/seashell" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>seashell</span></a></p>
Bobginpgh<p>I glued the bubinga fingerboard to the <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/bass" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>bass</span></a> neck this afternoon. The hard maple neck is reinforced with 2 (probably overkill) carbon fiber rods and a truss rod. Inlays and side markers are Total Boat <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/epoxy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>epoxy</span></a> with Black Diamond Pigments for the blue/green color. Now on to the body. <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/maker" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>maker</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/pghmaker" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>pghmaker</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/diy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>diy</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/wood" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>wood</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/woodworking" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>woodworking</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/clampchamp" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>clampchamp</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/bassguitar" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>bassguitar</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/luthier" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>luthier</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.world/tags/empireofdust" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>empireofdust</span></a></p>
Barry SchwartzThe newly completed, very simple edge-grain cherrywood cutting board, now soaking in some mineral oil.<br> <br> This is 13 one-by-twos of length 16 inches. By “one-by-two” I mean ¾×1½ inches, of course. 🤪 But sanded down. I haven't measured the actual thickness. I didn't get it perfectly even, actually. Maybe I will perfect it over time.<br> <br> The wood wasn't perfect. There was one insect hole, for instance, despite that the wood had gotten past an inspector. And one piece had saw marks and definitely should have been rejected by an inspector, but I put it on the end. I covered such flaws with Liquid Glass and/or NicPro epoxy, then sanded it all down. Liquid Glass epoxy actually has FDA approval for direct food contact. NicPro epoxy does not, but I am practically sure it is equally food safe. The issue is whether hazardous chemicals would leach from the cured plastic.<br> <br> The glue I used for the boards was Franklin Titebond III, which has FDA approval for "indirect food contact". In other words, for gluing together cutting boards. It also is DAMN GOOD GLUE for gluing together wood you are planning to clamp with pipe clamps.<br> <br> I used a whole bunch of Bessey pipe clamps of the old fashioned sort you tighten with a socket wrench or similar. I did not bother to plane or sand the boards, because Titebond III makes them wet and pliable and the pipe clamps mash them into each other real damn good.<br> <br> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/woodworking?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#woodworking</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxy?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxy</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxyResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxyResin</a>
Barry SchwartzI have painted the cross braces with NicPro epoxy. Leftover epoxy went on parts of the main boards. These boards are covered mostly with a mixture of NicPro epoxy and chopped fiberglass. The spaces between the boards are filled with NicPro epoxy pigmented glow-in-the-dark green.<br> <br> The main boards are yellow pine 2×6 (with some planing to correct for curvature in a poor choice of one board). The cross braces are scraps of black ash, probably from production runs of 1×2 for cutting boards or 1×1 for pen turning. (I have made an edge grain cutting board from such scraps. The grain is open so I used tung oil to partly fill it in. But cherry or maple is better.)<br> <br> I almost forgot: the very ends are covered mostly with Yieho UV resin. This makes up for some serious disasters I created along the way, involving overflows of epoxy onto the kitchen floor.<br> <br> The curing rates of UV resins using the means advertised by the sellers is exaggerated. I suggest making ample use of sunny days. But what I used here is also very good. I used an expensive Lumenshooter UV flashlight, and instead of the garbage batteries that came with it I have two LBF 21700 5000mAh 3.7V Li-ion rechargeable batteries. Unlike the OEM batteries, these require no charger. They have USB-C ports for recharging. They are slightly larger, but fit. It is an unusual battery format, as is that of the slightly smaller OEM battery.<br> <br> With this flashlight, curing usually takes seconds. The resin gets quite hot.<br> <br> There are also Japanese wooden nails and CA glue in the connection between boards and braces. The nails are made of beech.<br> <br> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxy?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxy</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxyResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxyResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/UVResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#UVResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/woodworking?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#woodworking</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/alt4Me?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#alt4Me</a>
Barry SchwartzI am clumsily constructing a new step, primarily of wood and epoxy. So far mostly wood. Yellow pine 2-by-6 and scraps of black ash. I will partially fill the spaces between with epoxy (having sealed the ends with UV resin) and reinforce the whole bottom with epoxy. Then I will turn it over and put on layers of epoxy.<br> <br> I use Nicpro epoxy. The same chemical formula is available from an increasing number of other brands. It has fabulous properties, among which is that it degasses without a hitch in a vacuum chamber.<br> <br> I generally do not use coating epoxies. They bubble fiercely. If I have a mold or for some light coating jobs I may use Superclear Liquid Glass. But even the 24-hour formula does not harden until near the end, and isn't as good at heated curing as is the Nicpro.<br> <br> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/alt4me?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#alt4me</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxy?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxy</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxyResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxyResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/UVResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#UVResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/woodworking?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#woodworking</a>
Barry SchwartzA new paper towel roll holder. Mostly a 1-inch diameter birch dowel. The base is a piece of yellow pine 2-by-6. But under the pine are twelve stainless steel flat washers as weights. The covering plastics are epoxies and acrylics. <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/woodworking?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#woodworking</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxy?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxy</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/epoxyResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#epoxyResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/UVResin?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#UVResin</a> <a href="https://pixelfed.social/discover/tags/alt4me?src=hash" class="u-url hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#alt4me</a>
Paul Houle<p>♻️ Innovative epoxy resin combines fire safety, recyclability and high performance</p><p><a href="https://phys.org/news/2025-02-epoxy-resin-combines-safety-recyclability.html" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">phys.org/news/2025-02-epoxy-re</span><span class="invisible">sin-combines-safety-recyclability.html</span></a></p><p><a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/epoxy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>epoxy</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/plastics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>plastics</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/thermoplastics" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>thermoplastics</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/recycling" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>recycling</span></a> <a href="https://mastodon.social/tags/materials" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>materials</span></a></p>
TomKrajci 🇺🇦 🏳️‍🌈 🏳️‍⚧️<p>How to remove/demold a part from a fragile part. (Hint: You can create shear in more than one way, and it may be better than creating a peeling action with hammer and chisel.)</p><p>The blue Styrofoam that served as the form will be destroyed as it's removed from the fiberglass wingtip weel, but it's a one-off form/mold that lacked any taper.</p><p>(This is a follow up to <a href="https://universeodon.com/@KrajciTom/114079474882668327" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" translate="no" target="_blank"><span class="invisible">https://</span><span class="ellipsis">universeodon.com/@KrajciTom/11</span><span class="invisible">4079474882668327</span></a> )</p><p><a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/avgeek" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>avgeek</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/aviation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>aviation</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/ElectricAircraft" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ElectricAircraft</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/ExperimentalAviation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ExperimentalAviation</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/homebuilt" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>homebuilt</span></a><br><a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Glider" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Glider</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/DIY" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>DIY</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Wing" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Wing</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Epoxy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Epoxy</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Fiberglass" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fiberglass</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Composite" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Composite</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Shear" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Shear</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Peel" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Peel</span></a></p>
TomKrajci 🇺🇦 🏳️‍🌈 🏳️‍⚧️<p>Making a custom wingtip wheel for my glider's right wing.</p><p>The bottom of the wingtip was covered with clear packing tape, then lightly waxed.</p><p>Hot glue temporarily attached the blue Styrofoam mold/form, which also contains the 60mm diameter roller blade wheel.</p><p>The part is made from seven plies of 7725 weave fiberglass that will be cut into a triangular shape after wetting with epoxy.</p><p>No vacuum bag, so this is a hand lay up. I had to use some small pieces of metal to coax the fiberglass to stay in the correct place.</p><p>The garage will be heated overnight so that the part cures, then some tugging and a rubber mallet should separate the part.</p><p><a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/avgeek" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>avgeek</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/aviation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>aviation</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/ElectricAircraft" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ElectricAircraft</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/ExperimentalAviation" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>ExperimentalAviation</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/homebuilt" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>homebuilt</span></a><br><a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Glider" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Glider</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/DIY" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>DIY</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Wing" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Wing</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Epoxy" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Epoxy</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Fiberglass" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Fiberglass</span></a> <a href="https://universeodon.com/tags/Composite" class="mention hashtag" rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">#<span>Composite</span></a></p>